Suspension Settings and Gearing Repository

[Joe]

post your suspension settings and gearing settings so people can share and try each others settings to see whats right for them

how to post

Track name:
Fork Compression:
Fork Rebound:

Shock Compression:
Shock Rebound:

Countershaft sproket:
Rear sproket:

[Voutare]

Not track specific, but a general guideline for setting up gearing:


If you are running a flat track, (Obel), I'd suggest gearing your bike extremely high, so you have less snap. I find that when coming out of corners, even when you roll on the throttle with a low geared bike, it wants to slide out more, which can cost time when you start to wobble and possibly highside.

So, for flat tracks, I'd suggest high gearing.


Aside from flattracks, I usually start with my gearing at 0 0. I will run the race, looking at what gears I use for various parts of the track. Most of the time, I try to set up my gearing so the fastest I go is 5th gear, but not to the rev limiter. The fastest your bike will be is when you get to the spot where you can use the most horsepower out of your bike, without having any left over, and without having a shortage. I'm sure you guys have all gone down a long straight and toped out in 5th gear, bouncing off the rev-limiter. That isn't what you want. You want to be able to accelerate everywhere, no matter what. Dirtbikes aren't cars, you can always go faster, and you should never be able to top out your dirtbike.


Most tracks, I tend to use 0 -1, or -2 2. -2 2 is a extremely low gearing, so you won't start pulling wheelies off berms, and you won't be out of control coming out of corners. I am using 0 -1 for Locust right now, because it's got just enough snap to get out of the corners, but I can hold it wide open and get to 5th gear without having to worry about topping out before the left after the start.



With suspension, I tend to have little to none for rebound on my shock, and my compression is usually around 50 for my shock. Forks are different. 100 rebound, and about 30 compression. This causes your rear end to stay low off jumps so you don't get front heavy, and it also keeps your forks high coming into corners, which allows your rear tire to get more grip with breaking, and it lets you float over breaking bumps a lot better. Your fork will absorb the bump, and then snap back to keep the front from dipping to much.

It's always better to have to tap your rear brake than have to panic rev.

My novel for the day.

[frederick]

If you are running a flat track, (Obel), I'd suggest gearing your bike extremely high, so you have less snap. I find that when coming out of corners, even when you roll on the throttle with a low geared bike, it wants to slide out more, which can cost time when you start to wobble and possibly highside.

So, for flat tracks, I'd suggest low gearing.

Got something wrong in there?

[Voutare]

Eh.

Sorry. Mean't high both times.

[Mittocs]

I use the same setup on every track, never change it

[yomo]

yeah... i just use the same suspension for all tracks

i think mine are pretty close to stock atm.. bit more rebound in the front to stop nose dives

[mace-x]

i use for sx low compression and low rebound, the lack of that suspension is the curves...........

[Garasaki]

Would sure be nice to have additional conversation on this subject!!!

The suspension settings have a surprisingly big effect on gameplay IMO. I can get good settings for turning, but they seem to suck on jumps. Correctly the jump problem seems to make it a lot harder to turn...

[Kawasakis]

i use stock haha

[ShackAttack12]

Would sure be nice to have additional conversation on this subject!!!

The suspension settings have a surprisingly big effect on gameplay IMO. I can get good settings for turning, but they seem to suck on jumps. Correctly the jump problem seems to make it a lot harder to turn...

Well, atleast you have figured that out, because its true.... as with most things that involve geometry, handling, stability, etc.... there is a trade off. It will be better for something and worse for something else.

I am a little confused by voutare's logic, however. It seems a little backwards to me. A higher dampening setting means that it resists that action more...

So voutare has his shock set with little to no rebound dampening.... this would mean the shock would decompress fast. This would make the front end of the bike fall, and make the back end seem very springy... possibly even be kicking the back tire up into the air on bumps. You wouldnt want that on a motocross bike. You want the shock to be relatively soft, and not have it spring back up at you. You want to find a setting that doesnt allow the shock to stay compressed, but right on the edge of that point.

His forks are set how his shock should be. The compression dampening on the forks should be set about half way, and definetly stiffer than the rear shock. The rebound dampening should be set relatively half way because you dont want your front end to stay collapsed, and you dont want your front end springing back up on you.

That having been said, heres how i run my susp.

On smooth tracks (IE, not a lot of choppy/bumpy terrain):
Fork
Compression 60
Rebound 60

Shock
Compression 20
Rebound 90

The forks are a little on the stiffer side, as to transfer more of the suspension action to the shock. The shock is soft, with hard rebound setting allowing the rear of the bike to stay squatted. If you watch all of the pros, notice that their shock is 50-80% compressed nearly all of the time....and for good reason. And notice that the their forks stay anywhere from 60-80% extended most of the time. A great example is when they blitz over whoops.

On rough/choppy tracks (IE: DJ's enduro track)
Fork
Compression 30
Rebound 60

Shock
Compression 10
Rebound 90

I soften up the forks to absorb the choppiness better, allowing it to be a bit more stable in corners. The shock is softened up a little bit, aswell.

[Joe]

its a shame people dont use this feature more when i ride in real life im off the track at least 4 times adjusting my suspension before a race

[yomo]

I find the biggest problem both in real life and in the game is when u constantly are adjusting things u never actualy get used to it... I rather just have a settup that is good for everything and just keep that and get used to it

here is what i have mine at:
Fork compression - 25
Fork rebound- 50
Shock compression - 25
Fork rebound - 50

i dunno but i found that is fine for all tracks, great for supercross whoops as the front stays nice and high... dont have a problem with jumps and cornering is fine

The only time i will change it if a track has only flat corners in which i have the front stiffer (60) and rebound at 90 to keep the front from dipping and washing out... (dunno if it actually works )

[enzopersson]

lol im not gonna write a diary like you guys, but i use 60-16 on both. then gearing 0 -2.
sometimes when im playing tracks with small jumps, i set my suspension to 0 couse it feels like you get so mutch grip and you dont need to scrub every single jump.

peace