power under 5,000RPM

[lluks252]

JLV, I think you should do something about this, as it never really effected me until red bud 2010 came out, it will stay under 5k RPM for awhile, I'm guessing because of the traction file. Do you have it as the same number for 1k RPM, 2k RPM, 3k RPM, and 4k RPM? If so, add a little bit of power to each increasing RPM, because on the keyboard, no power until 5k RPM sucks. Plus, I'm sure this will help out with newcomers.

[Pumaxcs]

What about the auto clutch or what ever its called.

[ShackAttack12]

This has been talked about before.... JLV basically only did the dyno's after about 4-5k rpm and just set the same number between 1-4krpm.

[JETZcorp]

It has been talked about before, yes. That doesn't really make it better. I find it ironic that the reason I'm faster in MXS on a 125 most of the time is that the two-stroke is giving me a more smooth and consistent power than the four-stroke. The auto-clutch helps, but every time it kicks in I can't help but think, "auto-crutch."

[lluks252]

This has been talked about before.... JLV basically only did the dyno's after about 4-5k rpm and just set the same number between 1-4krpm.

I know, Jetz caught onto this...I was wondering if JLV would make it a little bit more reasonable at the lower RPM's...because when you (shack) were racing at Red Bud 2010 today, I was going into ruts in 1st and around 3k RPM, and it just wouldn't get its ass going and if I clutch it (I use a keyboard) it will just loop out or the back tire just slid out. Maybe I'll restate my question so I don't get dumb responses.....JLV can you make the HP inbetween 1-3k or 1-4k RPM in increasing increments, instead of 1 number for 1,2,3, and or 4k RPM?

[jlv]

I'll do that, but that really is below the usable power range. Don't expect any miracles.

[JETZcorp]

I think the goal is controllability. The problem with the way it is now is that when you really have to drop anchor and turn the thing, such as taking inside berms at Washougal, it does momentarily have to go below 5,000. When you come out of the corner, the bike is going to bog for a second, then go ballistic as the power comes on, the chain snaps tight, and the rear tire yanks free of any grip and the bike sails up to 13 grand, leading the bike to lose all grip and just fall. I think that, without going from zero to "holy shit" instantaneously, it will make it a lot easier to come out of corners and not pull surprise U-turns and generally look like we're riding a plastic TM400. If I could modulate the clutch it would be fairly okay, but unfortunately on my joystick I've just got a button.

By the way, while you're tweaking the engines a little, do you think you could do something about the flywheel effect on 125s? I don't know this 100%, but I would assume that when you pull in the clutch on a modern 125 and pin the throttle wide open, that it doesn't take a full second to rev up. It's as if someone installed the flywheel from a truck onto the bike, and gave it a clutch made of Uranium. But, I've never ridden one of them in real life, so maybe that's how they are now, but every 125 video I've seen sure makes them sound like quick-revving fools compared to our lot in MXS.

Thank you.

[rideblue56]

but every 125 video I've seen sure makes them sound like quick-revving fools compared to our lot in MXS.

i think this might be a result of the pre_5000 rpm thing. because if you take it above 5000 and rev it from there it snaps pretty quickly.

I think that, without going from zero to "holy shit" instantaneously

thats pretty funny. do you have your throttle on an axis?

[JETZcorp]

Yeah, I've got a HOTAS joystick. But on the 250Fs, you have to apply a lot of power to get the bike up to 5000, and when it crosses 5000 it's got so much throttle that the thing goes nuts instantly. The 125 is a lot more mellow in its transition, but it still responds in a very weird manner. I mean, I've seen bikes with massively heavy cranks and big flywheels, and they still rev up faster than a 125 in this game. In neutral, my own 250 Husky will take you straight to the "red line" in something like a quarter-second if you just hammer the throttle (although that's a bike with no flywheel weight at all as well as a lightweight crank.)