Upcoming Models #2

[Boblob801]

I still have the basic block version saved before I went through and smoothed everything for a good looking result.

Maybe use the blocky version as the model and use the smoothed as a high poly and bake maps??

[WellsMX524]

Any clue as to why the radiator is sticking out the shroud? It doesn't do that on the blend file? Like, the entire shroud is just weird.

[Boblob801]

The faces are inverted.

[p2sta]

thats right, faces of that side are inverted, so you see the inside of them, not the outside. In blender select them and do normal flip, should be good after that

[Sandhapper]

We just need 2 sided planes. Would save some polys and frustration for sure.

[m121c]

Sandhapper can you explain? I don't see how 2 sided planes would be beneficial other than for the wheels.

[p2sta]

you would be able to save some polys, but if you want the bike to looks good you need the polys there too IMO.

you can do shrouds from just outside and you will not need to model inside of them, same for the radiator plastics, front fender and some other parts, but if you will have graphics on the parts they will be visible on the other side as well, which may look odd. Would save polys on stuff like chest protectors...where the protector is not exactly copying the body shape and you need to model the inside to prevent "see through" problems...same for goggle strap, etc. Not sure how worth it is

[m121c]

Thanks for explaining. I could see it being a help with things like the chest protector but in my opinion 3 dimensional plastics is the best way to go, just because that's how they are in real life. It would be helpful with things such as radiator guards and such though.

[attacker5]

Thanks for explaining. I could see it being a help with things like the chest protector but in my opinion 3 dimensional plastics is the best way to go, just because that's how they are in real life. It would be helpful with things such as radiator guards and such though.

[Sandhapper]

That's what I meant. It would be good for some track objects too, flags and that sort of stuff.

[p2sta]

yeah, track objects would definitely benefit from that

[SCHAFFERNOCKER]

I still have the basic block version saved before I went through and smoothed everything for a good looking result.

Maybe use the blocky version as the model and use the smoothed as a high poly and bake maps??

This is where my newbness to modeling sucks. I know maps are used to show detail and help keep down poly counts. But I guess where Im lost is when you are modeling something for a game, do you want to start with high poly and convert to low? Or start with low and convert to high? And How do I convert the poly count, because once I create a primative, convert it to a mesh, and make the shape I want. It wont allow me to go back and change the segment amounts... I dont even know if this makes sense, sorry im just new to 3ds and im trying to ask questions that will help me, but not make me sound like an idiot.

[Kording]

well you can do both. I prefere to model a high poly model first then dublicate it and remove the turbosmooth modifier and additional edgeloops afterwards.

Off topic:
I am still stuck at normal map baking though. This is the reason I havent finished a model for this game yet.
If somebody can help me creating normal maps in 3ds max pls send me a pm.

[m121c]

You can do either or, I prefer the low to high poly way myself as turbo smooth and support edges seams easier to me than messing with topology.

From low to high - Make your low poly model. Start from VERY low poly, with primitives start with really low segment count and just add detail as you go once you made it into a editable poly. Make a duplicate of the low poly, this will be your high poly. Search up on support edges, turbo smooth, and sub dividing. From there you will bake normal maps, there are numerous tutorials out there so I won't go into extreme detail

From high to low - To me this is harder but some prefer this method. Maybe with simple objects it would be easier I'm not sure but what you do is make your turbo smoothed high poly first and then re-topo it. (Search it, its basically drawing your low poly wireframe in the bounds of the high poly surface). From there you bake your maps.

Keep at it, glad you are willing to learn unlike a lot of others.

EDIT: I just saw what you said Kording, why not save time and just make the low poly without edge loops first, because in a sense you already are doing that but you are just doing edge loops then turbo smooth then undo the process. Why undo the process? Just make the low poly, duplicate that then add the support edges with the turbo smooth modifier. Don't take a step a ahead to go 2 steps back, and cause more work/time for you. Just my 2 cents.

[SCHAFFERNOCKER]

thanks guys. im done spamming this thread with non-upcoming model posts. I really appreciate the help, Im going to mess around a little more and see what i can come up with.