Skill Block in MX Sim. HELP !!!

[Not_Wings]

Bumping this to ask a question: anyone know how to get the power out of the 250s; I got everything else pretty much mastered, just can't hit the big lines on the small bikes.

[motokid499]

Its all about corner speed. if you can carry enough speed into the rhythm, you barely have to seatbounce. If your corner speed isnt quite there yet, you can do a few things to help with seatbouncing. Typically the higher your rider mass distribution, the easier it is to seatbouce. This is because when this value is raised, the weight in the rider model moves upward. This means that the weight is being thrown from a higher position, making it easier to preload the suspension when you need to. Of course the downside is you are changing the axis of rotation, as well as raising your center of gravity so it takes some time to get used to. Many pro's run .48 or higher, and the ones that dont, well they may be faster on certain areas of the track, but they wont be able to seatbounce quite as well. You can also change your rider vertical/forward settings to help seatbouncing. Typically the springier the setting, the easier it is to seatbouce. For example, if your rider vertical is set to 100 spring and 40 damping, your legs will act very springy helping you get more lift. Similarely, you can increase the speed of your rider forward movements. Anything faster than 100 spring and 20 damping for rider forwards gets very sketchy though, and takes more time to learn. Purpose built seatboucing settings will look something like this:

rider vert spring: 100
rider vert damping: 40
rider forward spring: 100
rider forward damping: 20
rider mass dist.: .50

Now of course, these settings might fail you in other areas of the track, as they are purpose built for one thing; seatbouncing

Most riders try to set up these settings as a happy medium for everything, and just make up for the lack of seatbounce ability by, well, practicing. The more you seatbounce the better you'll get at it, and the more you practice carrying speed through corners the less you'll have to seatbounce.

If you feel as though you are struggling to do the pro lines consistantly, try riding the 2006 yz250f se edition or a cr125. They are slower and will teach you how to carry momentum and not rely on power so much. You'll find that after practicing on slower bikes for awhile. you'll be able to more consistantly make the big lines when you switch back to a modern 250f dyno. Make sure you are also upshifting right at the lip of the jump, because for some reason it helps you seatbounce better.

[Not_Wings]

Its all about corner speed. if you can carry enough speed into the rhythm, you barely have to seatbounce. If your corner speed isnt quite there yet, you can do a few things to help with seatbouncing. Typically the higher your rider mass distribution, the easier it is to seatbouce. This is because when this value is raised, the weight in the rider model moves upward. This means that the weight is being thrown from a higher position, making it easier to preload the suspension when you need to. Of course the downside is you are changing the axis of rotation, as well as raising your center of gravity so it takes some time to get used to. Many pro's run .48 or higher, and the ones that dont, well they may be faster on certain areas of the track, but they wont be able to seatbounce quite as well. You can also change your rider vertical/forward settings to help seatbouncing. Typically the springier the setting, the easier it is to seatbouce. For example, if your rider vertical is set to 100 spring and 40 damping, your legs will act very springy helping you get more lift. Similarely, you can increase the speed of your rider forward movements. Anything faster than 100 spring and 20 damping for rider forwards gets very sketchy though, and takes more time to learn. Purpose built seatboucing settings will look something like this:

rider vert spring: 100
rider vert damping: 40
rider forward spring: 100
rider forward damping: 20
rider mass dist.: .50

Now of course, these settings might fail you in other areas of the track, as they are purpose built for one thing; seatbouncing

Most riders try to set up these settings as a happy medium for everything, and just make up for the lack of seatbounce ability by, well, practicing. The more you seatbounce the better you'll get at it, and the more you practice carrying speed through corners the less you'll have to seatbounce.

If you feel as though you are struggling to do the pro lines consistantly, try riding the 2006 yz250f se edition or a cr125. They are slower and will teach you how to carry momentum and not rely on power so much. You'll find that after practicing on slower bikes for awhile. you'll be able to more consistantly make the big lines when you switch back to a modern 250f dyno. Make sure you are also upshifting right at the lip of the jump, because for some reason it helps you seatbounce better.

thank you, much appreciated.