Riding&Training help&tips thread for beginners and Pro's

[SCHAFFERNOCKER]

ok im asking too.

i really wanna learn how to whip but it doesn't work how i want to. the problem is, that i can't get the rear end higher than the front end or maybe just how to know to make it even better. here's what i do:

keep in mind when you see a whip of someone upside down, they usually are coming off of a big ass lip. this pic here doesnt look like you would have enough hang time to get one stretched out that far.

Use your feet, whips are more about the pressure you push on the pegs rather then how much you move your head, body, arms, bars, on the gas, off the gas, it doenst matter. These dont effect your whipage, if anything it distracts you and wastes energy.
I once read a article from Twitch on whipping and that was the most important tip, and it works very well.

Three palms finish line jump used to be the best for whips, huge ass table with alot of hang time. Start off leaning back a little more with your weight netural, as you take off, pressure down on the opposite footpeg you want the rear end to go, (i.e. Pressure on left, whip on right, Pressure on right, whip on left. As it throws your ass end out, move your weight forward, and pressure the opposite footpeg you did for the takeoff once you get far enough and this will carry your back end right back around to straight. Im not the best whipper over every obstacle, but when I find a good one I like I can get a pretty good one.

[Judge]

^ Carmichael says on the handlebars. Apply pressure on the handlebars!

Nah but just kidding, of course its on the footpegs too.

[Ballsfalsky]

Your bars are pretty far back. Rotate em forward. And they will come up.

[Ballsfalsky]

That was for kawa.

[Sib43]

yea this jump was really small. but when i get a good jump for big whips, im too scary to make one

anyway, thanks for this tip. Hopefully it will help a bit

[stevoktm]

yea this jump was really small. but when i get a good jump for big whips, im too scary to make one

anyway, thanks for this tip. Hopefully it will help a bit

I would say leave the whipping alone if its scary for you, it means you're probably not ready or not at the skill level to do it properly yet, once you improve further and your skill on the bike increases im sure it would come to you more naturally. What does it really achieve anyway?

[Judge]

No pain no gain.

If you're scared grow a couple and try it (of course slow but steady), we're all scared at some point, I myself was really scared of a downhill jump untill last weekend when i thought fuck it and tried it, now it's just a shitty easy jump

[Sib43]

Yea I don't give it up. I think I'm on a point where I can control the bike in the air. But its just scary when you throw the bike out on a big jump. The problem is, in austria we don't have tracks with good jumps. I mean most practise tracks are fucked up... but a cool whip is the best feeling and on smaller jumps I can't jump straight because its boring xD

[Kawasakis]

Agreed. A good whip makes you feel like an absolute boss that's for sure.

[SCHAFFERNOCKER]

yea this jump was really small. but when i get a good jump for big whips, im too scary to make one

anyway, thanks for this tip. Hopefully it will help a bit

Just throw it out there once. Once you throw it far out it will come back. Natural Physics will bring the bike back, its just getting your self past the fear of the first one. The first time you'll most likely shit your pants and probably look like a goon. But you will feel like a boss.

[Tony el Tigre]

Bringing this topic back alive, I've never raced and my first race is gonna be in August, what are some good tips for starting, like what's a good gear to start in and what's a good body position

[Ballsfalsky]

Bringing this topic back alive, I've never raced and my first race is gonna be in August, what are some good tips for starting, like what's a good gear to start in and what's a good body position

My biggest problem is holding on to tight with my hands. I usually last about 4 laps on a really rough track before my hands start to lock up (I literally have to pry my hand off the bars because they are so sore). Being overweight doesn't help me either
I've always had good starts ever since I got my husky cr144. I found that I could never get starts on a 250f, but once I switched back to the smokers, it was natural feeling. On a 250 2 stroke, on a grooved out (rough for traction) concrete start, I put my bike in 2nd, and roll my bike about 2 feet away from the gate. I sit right in the middle of my bike, with my chest flat, back straight, elbows up (colton facciotti taught me). I creep fore ward as I wait for the gate to drop (momentum) and then once it drops I dump the clutch, let off the front brake, and gun it all at once. Once I hit about 8500rpm, I quickly pull the clutch and shift at the same time. Once you get used to short shifting with your clutch (do it as little as possible, its terrible for your trains and clutch), you'll be golden on starts. Oh, and keep both of your feet in front of your shifter/foot brake. That way, when you shift, all you have to do is hit the heel of your left boot on the shifter ad you bring your foot up to ahift ( if you're boots have the little stub on the heel for that).

Braking is definitely 80/20 front/back. If you're braking in large bumps, try to coast and even just keep your hand on the throttle as long as possible. The more you brake in large bumps, the more shock your wrists and arms are taking, and you will tire faster.

Body positioning comes with experience and comfort. If you have the bike setup properly it will be a natural to be in the attack position.

Cornering is also pretty tricky if you're bike isn't set up. Facciotti taught me to stand up as long as I can. Once I sit, I point my inside doot towards my front hub. That way I get as much weight on my front wheel as possible. Once I'm sitting, I'm on the gas. Lean the bike as much as you feel comfortable doing. When you feel comfortable, lean it over a bit more.


Riding is a about practice. If you don't practice, you will be dreading youre 5th, 6th, and even 7th laps.


Don't forget about throttle play, lever positioning, and even grip choice. Usually you want between 2-3mm of throttle play. Lever position, and grip choice is all personal preference. Personally I like my levers a bit lower than flat with the bars, and I like the new tapered renthal Kevlar grips.

Oh and I almost forgot. SQUEEZE WITH YOUR KNEES! Its easier with knee races too. Too bad I don't need knee braces.

[mbork-1]

1.oh idk guys i use bars positioned more to rear i feel better cornering and on bumpy straights way better
but i am 1.85 high ,and my back sometimes hurts but i i am not sure its ptoblems with bars,i just am not pro and not very strong boy

2.about whips i know teory how to move but have question what about throthle? hlaf, full, none?

[shawn1331]

I typically have in most motocrossers minds "terrible form". But I ride the way it feels comfortable and still fast. I mean I don't ride around in 1st gear rolling jumps just to stay comfy, but I don't really stick my butt out while standing or have my elbows extremely high. I was a very smooth snowboarder and skateboarder even though I wasn't very good, and that transitioned over to BMX and MTB. My form is definitely weird and unorthodox but I do what I can to change it yet still keep being smooth. In my opinion there isn't really a set way to ride a bike like some people think, get a general idea and then make changes as you see fit and do what is comfy.

For example I have a bad knee, so I stand more straight up then most people. But I'm short also so my center of gravity is low which doesnt change anything I think. Also I found it difficult in the woods to ride with my elbows up high all the time. I ride like 70% woods so I kind of got lazy and now ride with a higher stance and lower elbows. As well I barely ever sit, or actually sit. I kind of skim my butt on the seat like most guys do but on the track I never actually use my seat like the trainers demand you do.

Big tip on a 2 stroke I can give you is let the bike do it's thing. They steer from the back so you want to be fluid with the bike and not force movements. You don't want to compensate if the back end slings out by turning the opposite way because the back will come around. Also on a 2 stroke, the more weight you have on the front the more the back end kicks out, the more weight on the back the more traction you'll get but you'll need to have a little wider turn.

[jasper125]

What can you do about sore hands? Last race i really had some sore hands after like 4-5 laps couldn't hold on to the bike but it always dissapears on the end of the race when the damage already is done